Used car buying checklist

Before you go

1. Ask the seller for the VIN before you travel. A seller who won’t share it is a reason to stop.
2. Decode it with our free VIN decoder and compare the year, make, model and engine with the ad.
3. Check open recalls on NHTSA’s lookup. It shows safety recalls from the last 15 years that haven’t been repaired, and NHTSA says recall repairs are free at an authorized dealer.
4. Run NICB VINCheck for theft and salvage records reported by participating insurers.
5. Order a history report and read the title brands, accidents, owners and odometer readings. Write down your questions for the seller.
6. If the car was sold at Copart or IAAI, get the auction record with its lot photos and recorded damage.
7. Book an independent mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection, or ask the seller whether you can take the car to one.

At the car

• Match the VIN in three places: the plate on the dashboard, seen through the windshield on the driver’s side; the label on the driver’s door jamb; and the title. The New York DMV says to always make sure the VIN plate on the vehicle matches the VIN on the title. A mismatch, a scratched plate or a loose label ends the visit.
• Odometer: compare the dashboard with the last reading on the history report. The New York DMV calls mileage that goes down compared with the records a red flag.
• Wear: pedals, seats, steering wheel and tires should fit the miles shown.
• Flood signs: NICB points to water stains, mildew, and sand or silt under the carpet, floor mats and dashboard and in the spare-wheel well. A strong cleaner smell may be covering mold.
• Panels and paint: uneven gaps, paint that doesn’t match or overspray on rubber seals point to a repair. Ask about it, and look for it on the report.
• Dealer sales: look for the Buyers Guide. The FTC’s Used Car Rule requires dealers to display one on the used cars they offer. It says whether the car is sold “as is” or with a warranty, and what any dealer warranty covers.

The test drive

• Ask the seller not to warm the engine up before you arrive, so you hear it start cold.
• Drive at town and highway speeds and over a rough road, and brake firmly once where it’s safe.
• Watch for warning lights, pulling to one side, vibration, hard or slipping gear changes, smoke and new noises.
• Try everything: lights, wipers, windows, locks, mirrors, heating and air conditioning, and the screen and controls.
• Look under the car for fresh drips once you’re back.

The inspection

Have an independent mechanic look the car over before you sign anything or pay any money, including a deposit. That’s the Texas DMV’s advice, and the FTC says a history report isn’t a substitute for an inspection. The FTC suggests asking for a written report with a cost estimate for the repairs, which you can use to negotiate the price.

Paperwork

• Title in the seller’s name. The New York DMV says to make sure the seller has a title in their name, with a lien release if there was a loan on the car.
• Liens. Check title status and any lien with the DMV of the state that issued the title before you pay. NICB also suggests checking the VIN with your state’s motor vehicle agency for a private sale.
• Title brands. Read the title for brands such as salvage, rebuilt or flood, and compare them with the history report. Our salvage title check explains each one.
• Odometer on the title. In Texas, the seller writes the reading on the back of the title. Wherever you buy, the reading on the paperwork should match the dashboard.
• Bill of sale. Get one dated, with the VIN, the price and both signatures. Some states have their own form.
• Payment. The New York DMV suggests a cashier’s check made out to the seller, rather than cash.
• Leave with the title. The Texas DMV’s advice: never walk away from a private sale without it.
• Dealer sales: keep the Buyers Guide. The FTC says it overrides anything in your sales contract that says otherwise. The rule covers dealers who sell or offer more than five used vehicles in 12 months, so a one-off private sale usually comes without one.

After you buy

• Insure the car before you drive it away, and title and register it in your name within your state’s deadline.
• Book any open recall repairs with a dealer for the brand.
• Keep the history report, the inspection report, the bill of sale and, for a dealer sale, the Buyers Guide together.
• Reports bought here stay in your account, so you can come back to them when you sell the car. Smart VIN Check is independent and not affiliated with CARFAX, Experian (AutoCheck), Copart or IAA.